How to Sew Boxy T-Shirt for Beginners
It's very easy to run into problems when sewing t-shirts which is why this tutorial requires extra attention. There are a lot more hurdles and considerations to face before sewing, however, mastering this project will unlock a new dimension of sewing - expanding your sewing abilities to knitwear.
As a beginner, sourcing all the right fabric can be difficult. To save you the trouble, the Boxy Tee DIY Kit comes with the fabric, paper pattern and thread needed to construct your own boxy tee. This way you can focus more on the garment construction process.
To purchase a digital or physical boxy t-shirt sewing pattern, visit: Boxy Tee Sewing Pattern
Below is a complete beginner's guide for sewing with knit fabric.
Pre-Care
1. Choose the Appropriate Material
Fabric & Thread
"Jersey Cotton" is the most common material used for sewing t-shirts. The DIY Kits come in French Terry because the fabric is heavier than typical jersey cotton. Heavier material will be slightly easier to work with for beginners. Each kit comes with matching rib knit fabric and thread. Ideally, source 100% polyester thread because it has slightly more stretch than 100% cotton thread.
As per the Glory Allan pattern, you'll need:
T-Shirt Fabric: 1.50 yards
Rib Knit: 0.25 yards
Boxy Tee DIY Kit available here: https://www.gloryallan.com/products/boxy-tee-diy-kit
2. Wash the Fabric
A general rule for every sewing project is to wash the fabric before construction. This helps pre-shrink it and set the dye. All cotton products will have natural shrinkage, so it's best to take the safe route.
The best care for t-shirts:
Wash: Cold water
Dry: Hang dry
Sewing Supplies and Accessories
Sewing Accessories
Double Needle or Twin Needle
A ball-point double needle (or twin stretch needle) is highly recommended for this project or sewing with knit in general.
Ball-point needles are used for sewing knits because they have a rounded tip which allows the needle to pass between the fabric threads by separating them. A regular point needle on knit fabric might skip stitches or damage fabric. Along the same note, ball-point pins are also recommended.
Benefits:
- Automatically adds stretch using straight stitch setting
- Thread the sewing machine like one normally would
- Use for connecting seams or topstitching
Tips:
- Use special twin-needle setting, otherwise use straight stitch
- Longer stitch length = less stretch; and vice-versa
- Reduce stitch tension to avoid puckering and tunnelling
Because knit fabric typically has stretch, the stitches will need to stretch as well. If you plan to sew with knit fabric without a serger, a double needle is super helpful. Even with a serger, the twin needles creates a consistent, parallel topstitch for that professional look.
Ball-Point Stretch Twin Needle available here: https://amzn.to/3sbM5e8
Ball-Point Needle
The second best option would be replacing your typical sewing needle with a Ball-point needle. If using a single needle, a stitch option with stretch is required. Some sewing machines come with an array of "Stretch Stitch Settings". Otherwise, a simple zigzag stitch will do.
Ball-Point Machine Needles available here: https://amzn.to/3MSYfAr
Walking Foot
A regular sewing foot has the tendency to stretch the fabric as its being fed into the sewing machine. A walking machine can help avoid the common sewing problems that come with sewing knitwear.
Benefits:
- Prevent fabric from stretching when sewing
- Applies pressure above, reducing risk of throat plate "eating" fabric
- Commonly used for sewing with lightweight/slippery fabric
Word of caution: never backstitch with a walking foot as they are not designed for reverse stitching.
Alternatively, if you don't have a walking foot - use tissue paper. Place tissue paper on top of fabric as a stabilizer. Once stitches are complete, gently rip at tissue paper to remove.
SINGER Walking Foot available here: https://amzn.to/3KQ2Ce6
Sewing Machine Stitch Settings
Based on the attachments listed, use this chart below as a guide for sewing machine settings.
| Single Ball-Point Needle |
Double Ball-Point Needle |
|
| Standard Presser Foot | A | B |
| Walking Foot | C |
D (highly recommend) |
The settings will depend on your sewing machine, the weight and stretch of fabric, etc, but the configurations below are a good starting point.
| A (Standard Presser Foot + Single Needle) | Setting |
| Stitch Type | Zigzag or Stretch Stitch |
| Tension |
4-5 |
| Width |
0.5 |
| Length |
2.5 |
| Presser Foot Tension |
Low |
| Backstitch |
Yes |
*Cut tissue paper included in DIY Kit into 1" strips and place above fabric to stabilize
| B (Standard Presser Foot + Twin Needle) | Setting |
| Stitch Type | Straight Stitch |
| Tension |
1.5 |
| Width |
0 |
| Length |
2.5 |
| Presser Foot Tension |
Low |
| Backstitch |
Yes |
*Cut tissue paper included in DIY Kit into 1" strips and place above fabric to stabilize
| C (Walking Foot + Single Needle) | Setting |
| Stitch Type | Zigzag Stitch |
| Tension |
5 |
| Width |
0.5 |
| Length |
2.5 |
| Presser Foot Tension |
Med-High |
| Backstitch |
No |
*It is not possible to backstitch with a walking foot accessory
**Start and end stitches with stitch length of 0.5 for a few stitches in replace of backstitching
***Cut tissue paper included in DIY Kit into 1" strips and place above fabric to stabilize
| D (Walking Foot + Twin Needle) | Setting |
| Stitch Type | Straight Stitch |
| Tension |
2 |
| Width |
0 |
| Length |
2.5 |
| Presser Foot Tension |
Med-High |
| Backstitch |
No |
*It is not possible to backstitch with a walking foot accessory
**Start and end stitches with stitch length of 0.5 for a few stitches in replace of backstitching
***Cut tissue paper included in DIY Kit into 1" strips and place above fabric to stabilize
Sewing Session
https://youtu.be/R7BysYG7bP8
HOW TO SEW Boxy Tee Tutorial | GA018